Friday, March 23, 2018

I love Cambodian traffic

I love the traffic in this great city of Phnom Penh. At the surface it seems like utter chaos. there are no lanes and few stoplights. Most intersections are "4-way-goes" rather than "4-way-stops". But despite the seeming mayhem, the way this traffic flows is actually magnificent and specific. You only have to know how it works.

In Cambodian traffic most people drive on the right hand side of the road. That is, unless you have a stop coming up on the left hand side of the road, then you drive against the traffic. You drive on the far left, staying out of the way even though you are going against the flow.

Since someone may come down the wrong side of the road at any time, you constantly keep your eyes forward at what is coming. When turning you may look behind you briefly, but only for a moment. You can't risk missing someone coming toward you from the front.

Eyes forward. Always at what's to come, never at what you've past.

Red lights are optional. When the roads are packed some people will follow the suggestions of the colored lights. But if you find that there is a space for you between the other vehicles, carry on. Don't let that light stop you. Intersections are never empty, not even for a moment. Because why waste free space?

The blind spots of  large cars are your shield, come alongside them. It's easier to turn with a car and keep your eye on one vehicle that may run into you, rather than a dozen motos coming toward you at different speeds. These large cars are the most dangerous and at the same time the safest part of driving. They are both your enemy and ally.

There is no need to get angry. That moto carrying a hundred chickens will drive slower because it has moving cargo. The motos carrying furniture and nursing mothers will also be slower. If you're faster, go around them. There is no room for ego on these streets. We all go at our own speed, never resenting someone for the speed their cargo and vehicle requires.

Is it dangerous? Sometimes, but not usually. Most of the time we are going slow enough that a collision means nothing more than a bruised knee. The real danger comes when the streets are empty and you believe you can speed through. The scary parts come when you are alone.

Above all else, the key is to keep moving. When traffic seems jammed and countless vehicles are going in different directions through one intersection, keep moving. Find the crevices where you fit and squeeze through. The only way to fail in Cambodian traffic is to sit still. Always seek the space that will propel you forward. Even if that space happens to be around the sidewalk.

This is Cambodian traffic. Keep your eyes forward, go in whichever direction you need, come alongside others for security, don't get angry, don't be alone, and above all keep moving.

Marvel in the beauty of this traffic, recognize that it is all a expression of this great country and its brave people.